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Wood is a porous, organic material that is affected dimensionally by changes in the amounts of moisture it contains. Fine guitars made from solid woods are, without a doubt, more susceptible to the effects of changes in humidity than laminated instruments and therefore require ongoing attention to their condition. The moisture content of wood is determined by the relative humidity and temperature of the surrounding atmosphere.
Relative humidity is expressed as a percentage of air's capability to hold moisture. For example, 30 percent relative humidity means that the air is holding 30 percent of the moisture it could possibly hold at a given temperature. The moisture content for wood and the relative humidity for air are measured quite differently. In wood, a 6 percent moisture content is present at 30 percent relative humidity and 72 degrees F temperature, (about 22.2 degrees C).
The greatest threats to a fine wood guitar are extremes of and rapid changes in temperature and humidity.
High humidity can cause softening of the glues used in the construction of the instrument. Also, as the woods absorb moisture from the air, high humidity can cause the top and back, especially on flat-top and classical guitars, to expand and rise, making string action high.
Conversely, if you live in or travel with your guitar to a drier climate (either hot or cold), there is another danger. In areas of low humidity, the evaporation of moisture in the wood can cause shrinkage and cracking, no matter how long the wood may have been previously aged. It also can cause the top and back to shrink, making the string action low.
The collective experience of all of the major guitar manufacturers today has demonstrated that the ideal temperature to preserve the integrity of solid wood acoustic guitars is room temperature, which is about 70 degrees F (20.5 C). The ideal humidity is about 40 percent to 50 percent.
In winter, the forced air systems used to heat most homes can drive temperatures up and humidity levels dangerously low for guitars. A good measure of protection against drying out your guitar is to use a room humidifier. When the instrument is not in use, we recommend that you keep it in its case and use one of the small guitar humidifiers (such as Dampit) available from many instrument dealers. Do not leave the guitar out for long periods near a heating vent, radiator or indirect sunlight near a window.
Do not leave your guitar in the trunk of a car for long periods, and keep it away from excessive heat and cold. Please note: Damage caused to the guitar as the result of exposure to temperature or humidity changes will not be covered under the Guild warranty.
Cracks in the wood are typically caused by changes
in temperature and humidity. While a crack may
initially be alarming, if it is taken care of promptly it
shouldn't be a cause for undue concern. Cracks may
be easily repaired without compromising structural or
tonal integrity.
If the crack is in the top and near the bridge, loosen all
the strings to reduce tension (which could potentially
exacerbate the problem) and have the crack repaired
as soon as you can. Please note tat cracks in the
wood that occur as the result of exposure to
temperature or humidity changes will not be
covered under the Guild warranty.
Finish checking (very small splits in the finish)
usually occurs in winter and is typically the result of
suddenly exposing a cold instrument to the shock of
warmer temperatures.
All the materials that make up a guitar expand
and contract with changes in temperature and
humidity. Wood expands as it warms, and does so
faster than the finish. When this happens, the finish
may split and fracture in little lines over the wood. Although it does not affect the tone of the
instrument, finish checking mars its appearance. By
avoiding sudden temperature and humidity changes,
you should not have any finish-checking problems.
When an instrument has been brought into a
building after it has been out in the cold, allow plenty
of time for it to become acclimated to the new
temperature before you open the case. Please note:
Finish checking that occurs as the result of
exposure to temperature or humidity changes will
not be covered under the Guild warranty.
Clean the instrument after each use, making sure to
wipe the fingerboard and strings, as well as any of the
plated parts, i.e., machine heads, pickups, etc., with a
soft, dry cloth.
For gloss finishes, use a non-silicone-based guitar
polish. For satin finishes, use only a soft, dry
polishing cloth. For hand-rubbed finishes, use a soft,
slightly damp cloth and follow with a dry cloth.
When not playing the instrument, keep it tuned to
pitch and in its case. However, if you plan to store the
instrument for long periods of time, loosen the strings
a bit to relieve the tension (but do not remove them).
The natural oils in rosewood and ebony
fingerboards may dry out over time. Rough, exposed
fret edges are evidence of dry, shrunken wood. It is a
good idea to give your fretboard a drink of raw
linseed oil periodically to preserve its integrity and
natural beauty. Remove the strings first; then apply
the oil to a clean, lint-free cloth. Rub into the wood,
let it soak in, and then wipe to dry any excess oil.
Be careful when using vinyl, plastic or synthetic
leather guitar straps, guitar stands and wall hangers
using surgical rubber tubing, as these materials may
react with the finish of your instrument. Please note:
Damage caused to the instrument by the use of
non-Guild-approved polishes, cleaning materials
or accessories will not be covered under the Guild
warranty.
Guild uses only the finest tuning machines. These
machines are pre-lubricated, die-cast, sealed tuners
that do not require periodic oiling for smooth
operation.
A small tension adjustment screw is located at the
end of each tuner's button that also holds the button
in place. If the tension is too loose, the machine may
slip and go out of tune easily. If it is too tight, the
button may become very difficult to turn. Make sure
that the adjustment is firm, but not too tight.
The chrome and gold plating on Guild tuning
machines may become degraded from the acids and
oils in finger sweat. Wipe the machines off with a
soft, dry cloth after each use to preserve their
appearance and function.
Strings that have not been secured properly to the
tuning machine post may easily slip and go out of
tune. This problem is commonly misdiagnosed as an
issue with the tuners. Check your string installation
carefully.
There are a couple of different methods for tuning a
guitar, depending on whether your guitar is acoustic,
electric or an acoustic with a pickup. If you don't own
an electronic chromatic tuner with a reference tone,
you may want to purchase one. It will dramatically
simplify tuning your acoustic or electric guitar.
Always tune from below pitch up to the correct
pitch instead of down from a higher pitch. This will
help eliminate string slack from the tuning machine
and decrease the possibility of slippage and tuning
changes as you play. The strings should be tuned as
follows, starting from the thickest string to the
thinnest: E, A, D, G, B, E.
If you have an acoustic guitar, use the A-440
reference tone on your tuner, a guitar pitch pipe, an
A-440 tuning fork or other pitch reference, and tune
the second string (A) to pitch. Then depress the second (A) string at the fifth
fret to produce a D, and tune the D string to that
same pitch.
Next, depress the D string at the fifth fret to produce
a G, and tune the G string until the pitches match.
Then depress the G string at the fourth fret to
produce a B, and tune the B string until the two
pitches match. Finally, depress the B string at the fifth fret to
produce an E and tune the thinnest string to a
matching E.
Then go back and play the thickest E string
and tune it until the pitch at the fifth fret (an A)
matches the A on the adjacent string.
If using an electronic tuner on your electric or
acoustic/electric, simply plug in your guitar, turn the
volume up and tune from low strings to high as noted
on the tuner: E, A, D, G, B, E.
Due to the tremendous amount of tension exerted
on the neck by the 12 strings, we suggest that you use
a light-gauge string set, such as the Guild XL-1000 or
L-1250 on your 12-string guitar.
In standard 12-string tuning, the second string in
each pair is tuned to the same pitches, E, A, D, G, B,
E, and using the same methods as the six-string guitar
on the previous page.
For the E, A, D, and G strings, the first smaller
string in each pair is tuned to the same note, but an
octave higher in pitch than its partner. For the B and
E strings, the first string in each pair is tuned in
unison (exactly the same pitch) with its partner string.
Many players find it difficult to press the strings
down on a 12-string, due to the high tension caused
by the extra strings. A remedy that some players choose is to tune the
entire guitar to a lower relative pitch, such as E-flat
or D; thereby reducing the string tension. You may
then use a capo on the first or second fret to bring it
back up to where it plays at standard pitch.
The guitar will certainly be easier to play, and the
reduced tension will put less stress on the neck over
time, but bear in mind that it will also sacrifice a bit
of the tone projection of the instrument.
All Guild 12-string guitars feature a double truss rod
system for superior strength and improved accuracy
with the adjustments; however, a 12-string tuned at
standard pitch should be monitored regularly for possible truss rod adjustment. A guitar in
need of an adjustment that is ignored may develop
permanent problems. Please note:
neck warping caused by the neglect of
necessary adjustments will not be covered under
the Guild warranty.
A new set of strings can breathe new life into
your instrument. That is why many "tone-conscious"
touring professionals change their strings before
every performance. While there is no set rule on how
often to change strings, we have found that most
players do not change them nearly as often as they
should.
Body oils, acids from sweaty hands and humidity
all interact with the metals in guitar strings and cause
a corrosion and breakdown of the materials.
Don't wait until your strings break and fall off from
old age before you change them. Worn, oxidized,
pitted and dirty strings will not hold pitch, and simply
sound bad. If you are an average player, playing
several times a week, we suggest that you change the
strings at least once a month.
When changing strings, we recommend that you
remove and replace each string one at a time, instead
of all at once. This will prevent sudden and
potentially damaging changes in neck tension. Each
new string should be tuned up to correct pitch before
the next one is removed.
When tuning a brand new string, always bring it up
to pitch slowly. Otherwise, the rapid stretching may
cause the string to break.
The procedure for re-stringing acoustic guitars,
electric guitars and basses is quite similar in the way
the strings are wound onto the tuning machines.
There are differences, though, in how the strings are
attached to the bridges of acoustic and electric
guitars.
Guild flat-top acoustics have a pin-style bridge with
holes and bridge pins to hold the strings in place.
Guild jazz and electric guitars have a surface-mounted bridge or slotted tailpiece through which the
strings are fed.
To string a flat-top, remove the bridge pin and the
old string; drop the ball end of the new string into the
hole in the bridge, then re-insert the bridge pin to
keep the string in place. Make sure that the bridge pin
is positioned with the groove over the string. Do not
hammer the bridge pin in. A firm push with the
thumb will secure it in place.
To string an electric, simply feed the string through
the appropriate hole in the bridge or slot in the
tailpiece.
To attach a string to the machine head, thread it
through the hole or slot on the machine head, running
it halfway around the post, then underneath the main
length of the string. Next, pull the string end back
over the main length.
Make sure that each string is seated well, stretched
and snugged down on the tuning machine post. This
will prevent slipping and save you some tuning
frustrations down the road.
Note: Never cut a string to length before putting
it on your guitar and tuning it to pitch. Premature
cutting may cause the string to unwrap and
become useless. Crimp the string first, then clip near
the machine head post.
String tension exerts a tremendous bending force
on the guitar neck. Environmental conditions such as
temperature and humidity may also cause bowing of
the neck.
Guild guitars have an adjustable truss rod (or dual
truss rods on all Guild 12-strings) running the length
of the neck that counteracts this force, strengthens the
neck and insures straightness. A truss rod that is too loose will result in a concave
neck bow (action too high); a truss rod that is too
tight will result in a convex neck bow (low action and
fret buzz).
Should the neck of your guitar require adjustment,
first remove the rod cover located on the headstock
above the nut (the guitar should remain tuned to
pitch during this procedure). Then insert a Guild truss
rod adjustment wrench (p/n 350-9521-000) or an
equivalent 1/4" nut driver.
If the neck has a concave bow, tighten the truss rod
nut by turning it clockwise. If the neck is humped or has a convex bow, loosen
the truss rod nut by turning it counter clockwise.
Adjust the rod only a partial turn at a time; allow
time for the wood to settle and sight down the neck
after each adjustment. Be careful not to over-tighten
the rod.
If you meet excessive resistance or if you have any
doubts in your ability to make this adjustment
correctly, take your guitar to an Authorized Guild
Service Center. Please note: Truss rod adjustments
are considered to be routine maintenance and will
not be covered under the Guild warranty.
String height and tension typically determine the
ease with which the strings can be depressed. This
description of playability is usually called the
"action," and is determined by the distance between
the strings and the frets. Depending on your technique or playing style, high
action can sometimes be difficult to play and low
action may result in string buzz.
Most electric guitars have height-adjustable bridges
with adjustable saddles that allow you to easily tailor
the action to your needs.
On a flat-top or classical
guitar, adjustment is a little more involved. To lower the action, the bridge saddle must be
removed, cut down to the appropriate height and then
re-installed. To raise the action, the saddle must be
removed and replaced by a new, higher saddle.
Please note: These types of action adjustments
on acoustic guitars should be performed only by
an experienced and qualified repairman.
Guild guitars demonstrate the highest standards of
quality in material and craftsmanship and deserve
only the best in protection. We recommend that you
purchase a Guild factory guitar case that has been
designed and fitted exclusively for your guitar to give
it the utmost protection. Keep your guitar in a case
when not playing it.
If you plan to travel, carry your instrument in a
hard-shell case at all times for protection.
When traveling by air, your guitar may be exposed
to dramatic changes in temperature and pressure. To
help prevent possible damage, de-tune all of the
strings about a whole step so that the tension is
reduced on the top and neck of the instrument.
Guild offers a variety of standard and deluxe cases
for most guitar models. Please contact your local
Guild dealer for more information or to place an
order.
When ordering your factory case, please specify the
exact model of your guitar.
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